There exists in the east of the capital a Paris that traditional tourist guides often leave in the shadows. The 20th arrondissement is that Paris: popular, cosmopolitan, artistic, and surprisingly green. Nestled between the peripheral boulevard and Place de la République, it houses four former villages (Ménilmontant, Belleville, Charonne, and Père-Lachaise) annexed to the capital in 1860 by a decree from Haussmann. This unique history explains why you will still find cobbled alleys, steep stairs, low houses with colorful facades, and a village atmosphere that the bustle of Paris has never managed to erase.
This neighborhood has been the birthplace of many major cultural figures. Édith Piaf was born here, on a sidewalk of Rue de Belleville according to legend. Maurice Chevalier grew up here. Guy Môquet, a seventeen-year-old resistant shot by the Nazis, wrote his last heartbreaking letter here. Even today, the 20th continues to inspire artists, musicians, and filmmakers seeking a form of authenticity that has become rare in the central arrondissements.
Unlike the Marais or Saint-Germain, you won't encounter dense tourist flows or overpriced terraces. Instead, you'll discover neighborhood bistros where people still speak loudly, bustling markets overflowing with spices and exotic fruits, hidden artist studios at the end of secret courtyards, and breathtaking views of the Paris rooftops from the heights of Belleville. The 20th is a paradise for curious wanderers looking for the real Paris, the Paris of Doisneau and Prévert, the Paris of easy love and eternal songs.
Start your day with what remains undoubtedly the main attraction of the arrondissement: the Père Lachaise Cemetery. This immense 44-hectare necropolis, opened in 1804, is much more than a burial site. It's an open-air museum, a romantic pantheon where Chopin, Molière, Balzac, Édith Piaf, Jim Morrison, Oscar Wilde, and thousands of other personalities rest. Enter preferably through the main gate on Boulevard de Ménilmontant, and allow two to three hours for a leisurely exploration of the shaded paths.
Our expert's opinion
Sophie - Unusual Tours Expert
Take metro line 3 to Gambetta instead of Père Lachaise: you'll access the cemetery through its upper gate, allowing you to naturally descend through the most interesting divisions rather than climbing against the flow under the sun.
After leaving, head up Rue de la Roquette and then veer towards Parc de Belleville. Here you'll find one of the most beautiful panoramic views of Paris, with the Eiffel Tower in clear sight on a clear day. A municipal vineyard still produces a few dozen bottles each year, sold at auction for charity. The hill of Belleville once peaked at over 128 meters and rivaled Montmartre for the title of "highest point in Paris".
Next, head to Rue Denoyez, a jewel of Parisian street art where walls, doors, and storefronts transform into living canvases. The murals change almost weekly, offering a renewed experience with each visit. Just a stone's throw away is Place Fréhel, a silent tribute to the great popular singer, featuring a giant mural and a carved poem.
Continue along Rue de Ménilmontant, another mythical artery of the neighborhood, until you reach the charming Campagne à Paris. This hamlet of small individual houses with flowered gardens, built in the 1920s, seems straight out of the Norman countryside. Few tourists know about it, yet it's one of the most photogenic spots in the capital.
The 20th is a gastronomic paradise where world traditions coexist. For breakfast, stop by a neighborhood baker on Rue des Pyrénées: here, the croissants still taste of real butter and the bread comes fresh from the oven several times a day. Expect to spend a few euros for an authentic morning break, to be enjoyed on a bench in Parc de Belleville while watching Paris wake up.
At noon, the options are plentiful. Boulevard de Belleville is teeming with exceptional Asian restaurants: steaming Vietnamese soups, Chinese dim sum, spicy Thai cuisine. The value for money is unbeatable and the atmosphere exotic. If you prefer traditional French cuisine, several bistros on Rue de la Villette perpetuate the spirit of popular Parisian cafés: checkered tablecloths, daily specials on a chalkboard, and a landlady who calls you "my dear". It's a slice of the working-class memory of the 20th that still lives here.
For the afternoon, take a break at the famous café-guinguette Rosa Bonheur, perched on the heights of Parc des Buttes-Chaumont (straddling the 19th but accessible from Belleville). Live music, Spanish tapas, and a breathtaking view make it one of the most sought-after addresses by Parisians in the late afternoon.
End the day with dinner at La Bellevilloise, a former workers' cooperative turned emblematic cultural venue. Restaurant, exhibitions, concerts, and Sunday brunch constantly animate this place steeped in history. You can also opt for a more intimate address on Rue des Cascades, one of the prettiest alleys in Ménilmontant with its cobbles and old houses.
Strolling through the 20th is a pleasure in itself, but giving meaning to your wandering radically changes the experience. This is especially true for Père Lachaise, whose historical and symbolic richness remains largely invisible to an unaccompanied visitor. Without a guide, you'll see beautiful but anonymous tombs. With a passionate lecturer, you'll dive into 19th century Paris, romantic intrigues, literary scandals, political revolutions, and great artistic adventures that have shaped the memory of the capital.
Our Visite guidée du Père-Lachaise is designed to fit seamlessly into a day of discovery in the 20th arrondissement. In two hours, your guide will take you through the most emblematic alleys, linger on about twenty legendary tombs, and tell you the fascinating story of this cemetery that redefined European funerary art. You'll leave with a fresh perspective, ready to continue your walk through the streets of Ménilmontant and Belleville, finally understanding the historical depth of the neighborhood.
The offer is available from 14,50 €, a modest investment considering the cultural wealth imparted. Our groups are limited in size to preserve the quality of listening and allow everyone to ask questions freely. Morning sessions are particularly recommended if you wish to follow up with lunch in Belleville and an afternoon of strolling in the neighborhood.
Book your spot online now: dates fill up quickly in high season, and it would be a shame to miss this ideal entry key to understanding the 20th arrondissement in depth.
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